Sustainable leather? Sounds good—but how does vegetable tanning work in a company that also uses conventional methods? The answer: with expertise, trust, and a clear commitment to change.
The ICA tannery in Arzignano, Italy, demonstrates that chemical-free tanning is not just an ideal, but a lived practice – certified by wet-green GmbH. A collaboration that proves: leather production doesn't have to be backward. This article takes you behind the scenes at a tannery that understands that responsibility is not a compromise. It's the future. And that thus makes vegetable-tanned leather accessible to its customers.
More than just a beautiful sofa – where responsibility begins in leather production
When people talk about sustainable leather, they often think first of the finished product—such as a pollutant-free sofa. But true responsibility begins much earlier: in the tannery. The way leather is tanned determines its environmental compatibility, health aspects, and ultimately the quality and durability of the material.
For Vitra, a company that combines design, vision, and quality, it was clear: If leather for furniture was to be rethought, it also needed a new standard in production. Therefore, the choice fell on the ICA tannery – a modern facility in Arzignano, Italy, which was jointly operated by wet-green GmbH and Olivenleder® enters into an extraordinary partnership.
After initial discussions with Vitra in 2018, the product was developed jointly with Vitra's supplier ICA Leather and launched on the market in 2020.
The challenge was not easy: ICA operates in an environment where conventional tanning is also carried out – including the use of chrome and other chemicals. This made the independent certification by wet-green GmbH all the more important: It ensures that the Olivenleder® actually remains free from contamination and meets the high standards of environmentally conscious tanning.
The result goes far beyond the standard: 24 exclusive colors developed specifically for Vitra – a technical and creative achievement that shows what sustainable leather production looks like today.
Tradition meets innovation – the role of the ICA tannery
For over six decades, the Italian family-owned company ICA – Industria Conciaria Arzignanese – has been producing leather for the highest standards. Whether for designer furniture, the aviation industry, the automotive industry, or yacht building, it has roots dating back to 1961, but its sights are firmly set on the future.
While other companies rely on mass production using conventional tanning chemistry, ICA deliberately takes a different approach. From a controlled supply chain for hides, which are 100% slaughterhouse byproducts, to modern technologies and a team that understands its craft, this combination makes the tannery the ideal partner when it comes to ecological tanning at the highest level.
Especially in a demanding project like the one for Vitra, which involves not only vegetable tanning agents but also precise color formulations, consistent quality and chemical purity, every detail counts.
Two worlds under one roof: Certified safety despite mixed operation
Under the same roof, tanning is carried out using conventional methods – such as chrome in the so-called wet-blue process – as well as using vegetable tanning agents such as olive extract from olive tree pruning for Olivenleder®. A strict quality control proves that the two do not have to be mutually exclusive: ICA has been officially certified by wet-green® that no contamination with conventional substances occurs during the production of Olivenleder®.
To achieve this, more than just clean processes is needed. It requires clear standards, documented procedures, and, above all, trust between all involved. This is precisely the trust that exists between Vitra, wet-green®, and ICA – cultivated through intensive collaboration, regular coordination, and joint quality controls.
The requirements for producing genuine, pollutant-free Olivenleder® are high. A single incorrect cleaning agent, a contaminated barrel, the wrong dye, an improper separation of production lines – all of these could jeopardize the result. This makes it all the more remarkable how smoothly this mixed operation now functions at ICA. And not in some laboratory, but in the midst of the everyday industrial life of a modern tannery.
Working together for sustainable leather: What other tanneries can learn from this
What ICA has achieved together with Vitra and wet-green® is more than a single project. It is proof that change in the leather industry is not only possible, but long overdue. The good news: There's no need to reinvent the wheel. What's needed is the will to change, technical expertise—and partners willing to explore new paths together.
Other tanneries can learn from ICA that responsibility does not equate to sacrifice. That plant-based tanning agents like olive extract are not only environmentally friendly but also reliable for industrial use – without compromising quality, colorfastness, or feel. That purity is also possible in mixed operations if processes are cleverly designed and consistently implemented.
Collaborations with brands like Vitra also demonstrate the importance of transparency and communication throughout the entire supply chain. Anyone who still thinks sustainable, responsible production is purely a marketing gimmick has already missed the boat. Change doesn't begin with big words, but with smart decisions. ICA has made one – and in doing so, sent a signal.
Progress needs partners – and the courage to rethink leather
What does the collaboration between ICA, Vitra, and wet-green® prove? That true responsibility is never a solo effort. It arises when strong partners pool their expertise, question compromises, and have the courage to set new standards. Olivenleder® is no longer an experiment – it's reality. And it impressively demonstrates that even in an industry deeply rooted in tradition, real progress is possible.
And this is precisely where an opportunity lies for the entire industry. The collaboration between Vitra, ICA, and wet-green® demonstrates that high-quality, vegetable-tanned leather is feasible – even under complex production conditions. Those who embark on this path need not fear compromises in design or quality. On the contrary: it opens up new opportunities for creative and responsible design.
Would you like to know more about vegetable tanning agents, transparent processes or the collaboration behind Olivenleder® Want to learn more? Then contact us – we'd love to share our experiences. Together, we can achieve more.
You develop with leather – we deliver the solution.
Whether tannery or brand: Together with Silvateam we bring Olivenleder® to the point.
Video © 2025 Manuel Gussmann - All rights reserved