What happens when one of the oldest US tanneries tests a new vegetable tanning process?
Within the Horween Leather Company in Chicago The result even surprised the Vice President of Production.
"The biggest surprise was when we tried to make it like our Chromexcel... and amazingly, it came out just perfect."
Chris Koelblinger, VP of Production, Horween Leather Company
Tradition meets sustainability
Horween has been producing iconic leathers such as Chromexcel, Shell Cordovan and the leather for the official NFL footballsKnown for uncompromising quality, the tannery supplies some of the world's most prestigious brands.
In the mid-2010s, Horween began testing Olivenleder® – based on a tanning agent produced exclusively from by-products of the olive harvest. In 2019, the family-run tannery integrated the wet-green® process officially in their portfolio.
The result? Leather that looks, feels, and performs like the Horween classics – without chrome, without metals, without synthetic reactive tanning agents.
Why this is important for brands
For designers, developers and sustainability managers, Horween’s decision is more than just symbolic:
✅ Performance parity: Durability, feel, abrasion resistance – fulfilled.
???? Clean tanning: no chrome, no metals, no synthetic reactive tanning agents.
♻️ Recyclable: Production waste can be processed into certified organic fertilizer.
💚 Credibility: Traditional brands that Olivenleder® prove that sustainability and craftsmanship belong together.
Already on the market
Horween has sustainable Desert Boots for Clarks manufactured and with Patagonia at Wild Idea Bison Work Boots – showcase projects that show how traditional leather and modern sustainability can be combined.
Plug & Play instead of conversion
Another advantage: Olivenleder® can be easily integrated into existing processes. "We barely had to adapt our production facilities. The material works like a high-quality wet white," explains Coleman. Most of the work steps remain unchanged – this makes Olivenleder® particularly attractive for traditional companies like Horween.
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